My New Zealand Jobs

Fox Glacier

Fox Glacier and Franz Josef Glacier are the two most accessible glaciers in New Zealand, and a vibrant tourist industry has grown up around the two towns of the same name. I booked three nights at the Ivory Tower. The ambience in the dining room was cool, between the music and motivational posters, though the kitchen wasn’t too great. As I arrived in the evening, I ended up joining the rest of the crowd and watched most of The Two Towers and The Return of the King. The next day I started hiking toward the terminal of the glacier (it’s lowest point). Ended up being a longer hike that I expected. Met an Irishman on the way up and we hiked to the glacier, and back, for a long 10k in total. Ate lunch and then headed to Lake Matheson. The lake is nicknamed “The Mirror Lake” because at sunrise and sunset it is very still, and reflects Mt Cook and Mt Tasman perfectly. The walk was 6k each way, and I didn’t know what to expect after a mostly cloudy day. I walked, reached the lake, then walked around the lake, and then…. The clouds parted, the sun set, and I got the shot! As a photographer, that’s what you live for, so it was very thrilling. The walk back was dark, but I was excited enough to really enjoy it.

I planned to hike the glacier the next day, but it was pouring, really really pouring rain, and quite a bit of wind. They cancelled the trips, not that I would have gone if they didn’t. I could have stayed another day and tried again, but I opted to just move on.

Punakaiki

While others had overnight stops in Greymouth or Westport, I opted for Punakaiki, a small town on the edge of the Tasman Sea and Paparoa National Park. Stayed at Te Nikau Retreat, which is a hostel of sorts. In reality, it’s a collection of fully furnished cabins with fireplaces and no TVs. Only two other people stayed in mine the first night, and it was wonderfully relaxing. I rested the first day. The second day I walked the Tasman Track, the Pororari River Track, and descended into the Punakaiki Cavern. The Tasman Track is a 15 minute walk through bush to a beach on the Tasman Sea. The sea there is too rough to swim in, but it is very, very cool to watch with the powerful waves and white foam stretching onto the beach. The beach itself had this stony sand, a few coves, and some scuplted cliffs. The hazy sky made it so pictures wouldn’t come out well, but it was great to sit and watch. Punakaiki is most famous the it’s Pancakes Rocks and Blowholes. I got some good pictures of the layered pancaked rocks. The blowholes send water up through the rock when the tide is high and the sea is rough, and fortunately is was when I got there. I thought about going to Hokitika, the main greenstone working town in New Zealand, and taking a greenstone carving course. After stopping there for a tourist break, I was very glad I passed. It’s just one of those cities you don’t want to be in very long.

Nelson

Left the heart of Wellington on Sunday. My friend Andrew picked me up from my flat, and I said goodbye to my flatmates from the last 6 months: Steve, Dave, and G. Got dropped off at the airport, grabbed a coffee, and boarded the plane. The ride was turbulent, and my heart was empty. Wellington has been my home, and I was settled there, with a job, a flat, and friends. I know it was time to move on, but a piece of me is now in Wellington.

Upon arrival, looked at a map and decided to walk to my hostel. After a few minutes, I was quite happy to find a bike trail that went to the center of town. So, I walked through the light drizzle for an hour or so, finally finding myself walking along a highway. Soon after, a SUV pulled aside and offered me a ride, which I accepted. The old farmer asked me about myself and told me about farming in New Zealand. It would have been a looong walk, so I was really greatful to be dropped off at the hostel.

It rained all day Sunday, and Monday. No photos. Have gone through a few roommates in my 5 star hostel, including an American from Arizona and a Canadian from Ontario. Nelson is a nice little town, with a good arts & crafts scene. Walked to the harbor one evening, and then walked in the harbor, as the tide was way out. Also managed to lose 3 games of chess quite convincingly.

Finally had a sunny day today. Walked about, went to the Suter Museum, and drank coffee on the patio. They had a big snow storm in the mountains south of here, blocking the roads for miles. Fortunately I wasn’t destined for a bus today, though my fellow American, Ryan, was. It was a good day to relax and reflect. As I passed by the courthouse, and looked at the people standing outside, I was reminded that all is not right with the world. Even in one of the most popular cities to live in New Zealand, people struggle to find their way, and make their share of mistakes. All people need love, and some people need it more than others. If life seems pointless for me at times, it’s only because I’m too self-absorbed and comfortable. Love can always make a difference, and there is never enough in this world.

So Long, and Thanks for All the Fish

So say the dolphins in Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy by Douglas Adams. There are dolphins around New Zealand, but I haven’t spoken with any. It is my last day of work today, and two days from now, I move on from Wellington. My first stop will be Nelson, an artsy and sunny town on the South Island. There is a time to move on, when it is just good to do so, but I will always miss the people who shared my journey during that time. Goodbye my friends!!!

Sarah shines on first tour in New Zealand

It had been eight years since Sarah McLachlan had first performed in New Zealand, as part of someone else’s tour. Since that time, she has put out a few albums and put together the highly acclaimed all-female music tour, Lilith Fair. More recently, she had a daughter in 2002, and recently her latest album, Afterglow. Now, the 36 year old Sarah McLachlan takes her Afterglow tour down under for a few weeks. After traveling through Oz, she makes her way to New Zealand for three concert dates, one of which is at a place she has been before, the Wellington Town Hall.

Sitting in the third row, center, my friend and I are only 10 feet from the stage, and only fifteen feet from Sarah. Because of the way the speakers are set up, the sound wasn’t optimal for us…but we were 15 feet from Sarah, who is much more lovely in person. Opening the evening was New Zealand adult contemporary artist Amber Claire. Amber has done well for herself in New Zealand and beyond. Sarah is one of Amber’s main influences, and she has been likened to her mentor, and was no doubt thrilled to open for her. Amber, however, is a good, not great vocalist, who’s songs have no edge to them. Sorry Amber, you are not in the same class as Sarah McLachlan, or Enya, and definitely not Celine Dion.

After Amber’s set, we waited anxiously for awhile until Sarah’s band came on. The lights went down and the light show began. Her crew made great artistic use of color patterns and abstract images. It was the coolest background display I had ever seen, and that only enhanced Sarah’s ethereal, mood-inducing music. Starting with her latest single, then moving to the popular Aida, her voice soared, then wove a quiet tapestry, and no matter the note, she never strained to hit it. Without question, she is the best female vocalist I have ever seen live. Let’s not stop there though. While at times she merely sung passionate into a microphone, most of the time she played a guitar as well, acoustic and electric. And then, for the delicate songs, she sat at the piano. Some of the first words she spoke were before dedicating a song she wrote for her husband. Music told the story this evening, with words being few, but when spoken, they were genuine and full of meaning. As she left the stage at the end, the crowd roared, and soon after, they returned. As she said, “Now is the time for dessert.” We then all sang Ice Cream, her crowd participation favorite. A few more songs then ensued, and then Sarah said goodbye while her band finished the last song. The crowd wasn’t quite ready to leave, and made that known. Sarah came back onstage and was quite overwhelmed. Silently, quietly, she made her way to the piano, started playing, and sang: “Spend all your time waiting…for a second chance…” Angel flowed from her silky smooth voice and left me so mesmerized that I found it difficult to cheer after the song. The crowd started clapping and screaming, and I stood, and cheered, and as I looked around, realized everything else was doing the same. Sarah deserved the standing ovation, and I’m glad that the home of Peter Jackson recognized this, and could share their hearts with someone else.

This just in

It’s official…though I debated this decision quite a bit. I have been longing to go back to the US, but I also have got connected with a good church called The Street City Church. This week I was offered a permanent contract with Fujitsu. Wow, it’s a privelege to have the opportunity to stay in New Zealand! However, after much thought and prayer, I turned it down. My last day of work will be June 18th. On June 19th, I will fly from Wellington to Nelson. From there, I will travel south along the coast to Milford Sound, then go up through the center of the South Island to Mt Cook, then finish in Christchurch. On July 16th, I will fly from Christchurch to Auckland, from Auckland to LA, then from LA to Pittsburgh. Those three flights will all occur on the 16th (due to time zone crossings), and I will arrive in Pittsburgh around 9pm. Sigh.